Color Issue
染髮先了解頭髮
Understand hair structure first before hair coloring.
In your hair coloring experience, have you ever encountered the result unmatched your expectation?
Try to paint the same color on different drawing papers. The color will show different color effects due to different paper material, background color, and thickness.
Same as the principle of painting, everyone's hair texture and base color is different; if you want to get precise hair coloring results, the stylist must have a basic knowledge of hair structure.
Hair Structure
There are three major components of hair:
-
Cuticle
A superficial layer that surrounds the hair shaft, formed by protein keratin. Akin to fish scale, it provides outer protection to hair strand. The concept of semi-permanent coloring, pigment is attached to the cuticle layer. -
Cortex
Cortex, the hair shaft system, influences the thickness, curliness, and natural pigment of hair. Permanent hair coloring defines as the blend of artificial color with the natural pigment inside the cortex. -
Medulla
Locates at the inner and central part of hair, do not have any effect on hair coloring.
Hair quality
It defines as the degree of healthiness of hair. It can be innate or affected by acquired factors. Daily expose to environmental factors, e.g., sunlight or air, together with frequent chemical treatment can cause hair with various degrees of porosity. Porosity will influence the capability of water absorption and preservation, thus cause hair damage.
For different degree of hair porosity, hairstylists will adopt different coloring approach. The evaluation of pigment absorption and preservation capability is an important procedure before hair coloring.
Hair quality can be categorized as 3 types:
-
RESISTANT HAIR：
Resistant hair: characterized with thick cuticle layer, which cause slower pigment absorption, thus longer processing time is needed. -
NORMAL HAIR：
Normal hair: characterized with normal rate of pigment absorption and rather precise coloring result. For generic products, normal hair is adapted as the benchmark for user guide. -
DAMAGED HAIR：
-
Damaged/high porosity hair: characterized with quick pigment absorption, yet easier and quicker to fade out. The color tone on high porosity hair will be darker than expected and with the property of warmth resistant.
-
The newly formed cuticle layer has smooth and shiny surface. Hair appears lustrous.
-
When cuticle layer became damaged, it appears like pine cone without shiny and rough.
認識染膏
Hair colorant is divided into 2 types: Permanent vs Semi-Permanent
The ingredients that form colorant is divided into direct dye and indirect dye:
Direct Dye
a color pigment that can display the shade without the need of oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide). The size of its color molecules is normally larger and only maintain on cuticle layer.
VS
Indirect Dye
Indirect Dye, also named as Oxidative Dye, oxidization process is needed for displaying the shade. The size of its color molecules is normally smaller, and the process allows color pigment infuse into and maintain in the cortex.
Permanent Color
This type of colorant can be formulated with direct or indirect dye, or blend of these two ingredients. It can permanently alter the hair shade, yet the new growth area needs to be retouched.
VS
Semi-Permanent Color
This type of colorant, formulated with direct dye, has no lifting function. For shade to appear prominently, it is necessary to apply it on light colored hair (hair with less underlying pigment). It is suitable to use for color retouch or changing hair tone. Usually lasts for approximately 4 to 8 months.
染髮原理
Using Semi-permanent color, the pigment only maintains on cuticle layer and will not cause hair damage. On the other hand, using permanent color, the alkaline agents will stretch the cuticle layer and allow chemical reaction occurs inside the cortex. The colorant’s pigment expands as time elapse, reside, and combine with the underlying pigment in the cortex.
Tips for permanent coloring
colorant’s pigment + residual underlying pigment = end result
永久性染髮膏
經氧化後，色子能滲入皮質層
(Cortex)，永久染色。
半永久性染髮膏
非氧化性色子僅能粘附或滲入鱗狀表層 (Cuticle)，染色屬暫時性。
Location of artificial color reside
玩盡色彩
IDA professional color, with 7 primary tones and a variety of mix tonals, the sophisticated colors can fully meet the needs of different customers.
Here, we will take you through the colorful world of IDA, hoping to ignite your inspiration.
Primary tones
.0
Natural
Blend of three primary colors, red, yellow, and blue. It can create a sense of natural and outperform in gray coverage.
N
.1
Ash
Embraces of cool blue tone. It can neutralize warmth and deepen hair color.
A
.2
Violet
Creates cool violet reflect and able to neutralize unwanted gold color.
V
.3
Gold
Attains pure blonde reflect.
G
.4
Copper
Embraces of orange tone. It can create lustrous copper reflect.
K
.5
Brown
Natural brown reflect with outperform gray coverage.
B
.6
Red
Attains pure red reflect.
R
Mix tonals
.26
Violet Red
Attains vibrant reddish violet reflect.
VR
.33
Tawny
Embraces of cyan tone and able to attain cool blonde reflect.
GG
.35
Golden Sand
Attains a touch of cool blonde reflect.
GB
.43
Copper Gold
Creates natural copper gold reflect.
KG
.46
Copper Red
Creates reddish orange reflect.
KR
.65
Red Beech
Creates brownish red reflect.
RB
.56
Ruby
Creates reddish brown reflect.
BR
.66
Extra Red
Creates ultimate vibrant red reflect.
RR
.62
Red Violet
Creates cool red reflect.
RV
AN EASY GUIDE TO PERFECT COLOR!
Hair coloring is a creative and fascinating job. Rather than purely indulge in color every day, we should also enjoy the beauty that color brings to the world. When coloring hair for customers, the same formulation of colorant and developer, then apply it to hair with different colors and quality, can also create various kinds of effect. This kind of interesting infinite creation of possibilities can build up one’s fascination, and it could be sure that the hairstylists have experienced it.
It is particularly important for newcomers to master the basic skills of hair coloring first. More practice is a must to further enhance their skills and creativity. Just like mixing an excellent cocktail, well experience and creativity are indispensable for bartender. Through daily practices with effort and creativity, you can also be master one day.
5 EASY STEPS FOR HAIR COLORING
Analysis client’s existing color level.
Check existing natural hair color level and whether artificial color exists.
Step 1
Determine color level adjustment.
Check whether lightening, darkening or tone alteration is needed.
Step 3
Decide target shade
Use Color Chart to aid client selecting target shade.
Step 2
Determine gray hair proportion
Determine whether gray hairs exist and its proportion. Consider whether Natural series (N) is needed to add-in for gray hair coverage.
Step 4
Determine the influence of underlying pigment on target shade
Determine the residual underlying pigment when reaching the target shade’s level and consider whether it will affect the end result and add-in Mix-tone is needed?
Step 5
染膏混合比例及操作時間
The mixing proportion for most IDA professional colorant is 1 part of colorant to 1 part of developer. By following this proportion, the mixture can reach its ideal viscosity and attain the best performance. After applying on hair, leave for 35 minutes. In case of gray hair coverage, the ideal processing time is 45 minutes.
50ml
1: 1
標題 1
Normal hair dye35 mins
Gray hair coverage 45 mins
50ml
塗放方法
Virgin Hair- from natural dark to light color
For first timer, if desire shade is 2 levels or above than current shade, please follow the steps below:
-
Mix the desire shade with developer, start at the distance 2 cm away from the scalp apply the mixture up to the rear end and leaves for 15-20 minutes.
-
After 15- 20 minutes, apply the residual mixture to the remaining roots and leaves for 15-20 minutes.
如何避免「爆根」
一般距離頭皮1-2 厘米部分新生髮，髮質會較易上色，加上近頭皮部分受體溫影響，會加快染劑發揮功效時間，若在同一時間塗抹染劑，髮根部分會比髮幹部分顏色較淺，會出現俗稱「爆根」效果。所以我們應先塗抹髮幹部分，最後才塗髮根部分，而幼弱髮質的髮根部分可能需要使用較底濃度雙氧奶。
Virgin Hair- from light to dark color
Virgin Hair- from light to dark color or gray hair coverage
For person with light natural hair color, e.g. Westerners, or person with gray hair and desire to darken their hair color, simply need to mix the target shade with 6% developer and directly apply to hair from root to rear, and leave it for 35 minutes.
High porosity hair- light to dark color
Mix the desire shade with 3% developer, directly apply the mixture to hair from root to rear and leave for 35 minutes. (For rear end with severely pores, apply the same mixture to the rear in the last 5-15 minutes)
When dealing with dyed hair, you need to consider the porosity of the hair to determine the time of placement and even consider not applying it.
如何使用IDA染膏配方調製查閱表
For the convenient of hairstylists to get a perfect coloring result by using IDA colorant, each IDA color chart is specially designed with“The directions of peroxide and indication” table attached. Simply follow the indication on the table and you can create a suitable formulation for your clients.
< The directions of peroxide and indication>
建議配方
尋找目標顏色
找出頭髮自然色度
First, find the client’s existing hair color level (on top of each column) and desire color (left hand side of each row) on the chart. The intersection point of the tabular is the recommended formulation that shows the required strength of developer or other indications as shown below:
NR = Not recommend to apply
BC = Pre-lightening or add-in blonding cream to mixture is required
B = Pre-bleach is required
H = Use same tone series but 1 to 2 level higher colorant, rather than the exact colorant of the desire shade
There are also suggestions for different hair texture:
Resistant (Upper row)= coarse hair ( healthy or resistant hair type)
Normal (Lower row) = weak to damaged hair type
Next time before coloring for your clients, simply first check the suggested formulation from this chart, then you can easily get the hair shade you want, so simple!
GET IT DONE!
In here, we provide you with various possible solutions and simple indication tables, you may use them whenever you come out with any difficulties on coloring. Just need to read and execute carefully, the problem can finally be solved smoothly!
Perfect gray hair coverage tips! There are 3 key things that need to be aware for gray hair coverage:
1. Determine the proportion of pigmented hair to gray hair.
2. Must use 6% or above developer.
3. Recommended processing time is 45 minutes.
Even though gray hair does not contain natural pigment, it possesses vigorous and healthy cuticle layer that is difficult for color penetration. Therefore, we need to use 6% or above developer and prolong the processing time to attain the ideal gray coverage. For perfect gray hair coverage, it is best to select IDA Natural (N) and Brown (B) series.
However, in case client desires trendy color, we need to add-in different proportion of natural series colorant into formulation base on existing gray hair proportion to lower the prominent effect of shade on gray hair area.
